Sunday, October 21, 2012

Jon and Sam and Johanna's Excellent Day

THIS SIGN IS AT THE BEGINNING OF THE TRAIL
THE ELEVATION HERE IS ABOUT 7,900 FEET
            On Wednesday 10/17, we made the 90 mile drive to Crater Lake National Park.  None of us had been in the park for a dozen or more years and none of us had climbed Mt. Scott.  The trail begins from the East Rim Drive Road, about a third of the way around the Lake from Rim Village.  We spent fifteen minutes at the Park Headquarters visiting with the ranger on duty and stocking up on 25-cents postcards.  (The price was posted as .25c but I didn't quibble and the lady at the counter didn't seem to see the difference between four for a penny and four for a dollar.)


          It's about 12 miles from Headquarters to the trailhead and we arrived there at about noon.  We had some snacks and started up the mountain a little later.

VIEW OF MT. SCOTT FROM ABOUT 100 FEET FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE TRAIL
THE LOOKOUT IS ON THE HIGHEST PEAK, ABOUT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE RIDGE LINE.
THE CHUTE LOOKS LIKE IT MAY HAVE BEEN A GARBAGE CHUTE OVER THE YEARS.


          The trail loops to the right from the starting place and rises at a fair pitch all along.  About an eighth of a mile into the climb you lose sight of the top and don't see it again until about two hundred yards before you are there.

THERE WAS LITTLE OTHER TRAFFIC ON THE
MOUNTAIN
          It only took  us about an hour and fifteen minutes to go the two and a half miles and about a thousand vertical feet.  The views are well worth the little energy expended.



THEY SAY MT. SCOTT IS THE ONLY PLACE ON THE GROUND WHERE YOU CAN GET ALL OF THE WIDTH OF THE LAKE INTO ONE FRAME

THE PEAK DIRECTLY ACROSS THE LAKE IS CALLED WATCHMAN PEAK (8013').  THE HIGHEST POINT ON THE NEAR SIDE OF THE LAKE IS CLOUDCAP (7865').  IF YOU JUMPED INTO THE LAKE FROM CLOUDCAP YOU WOULD BE VERY NEAR TO THE DEEPEST PLACE IN THE LAKE (1943') IF ANYONE EVER FOUND YOU.


MT. THIELSEN BUT THROUGH MUCH HAZE AND WITH THE ZOOM ON THE CAMERA



ON THE SWITCHBACKS GOING BACK DOWN

FROM THE BOWL NEAR THE BASE OF THE MOUNTAIN
          About 20 miles from Mt. Scott, generally northwest, is Rabbit Ears.  Everyone who has traveled Hwy. 230 from Union Creek to Diamond Lake has seen it.  None of us had been closer than the highway so we decided to drive closer.
          The base of the pointed ear is about 300 yards along a trail from a Forest Service road turnout about six miles from the highway.

RABBIT EARS FROM HERSCHBERGER LOOKOUT

We walked in to the base of the ears where you see that the pointed one is maybe 300 feet higher than the surrounding forest.  I learned later that if we had continued along the trail we could have walked between the ears.  Rock climbers apparently climb them and they are very inviting.  The possibility made me wish I was in better shape, or maybe 40 years younger.


THE POINTED RABBIT'S EAR FROM ITS BASE.


THE POINTED RABBIT'S EAR FROM THE ROAD ABOVE
          We continued along Forest Service roads until we arrived at Herschberger Mountain Lookout.  The views from there are spectacular.  The lookout has been decommissioned but the building is in good shape and you can go in and enjoy the views from where the fire table once was located in the attic.



HERSCHBERGER LOOKOUT

RABBIT EARS BETWEEN US
I hadn't realized how dumpy I have gotten, as if I'm getting old and about to fall down, until I saw the photos of me here.  The solution is to not have any more photos taken.















JCE

Sunday, April 15, 2012

100 THINGS TO DO

          The 100 places to go list that has been making the rounds on Facebook seems to me to just be a list made by someone who used a travel agent as his main resource.  I think that the 100 most important places to go will be different for each person.  There are certainly cities and places we all should see, but even those places will be different for different cultures.  A more personal and, therefore, more meaningful 100 places list would take into account your roots and your likes and interests.  The American National Balls of String Museum  probably wouldn't make many professionally done lists but it might be the one place in America you really want to see before you die.
          There's no way provided here to check the places you've visited and get immediate recognition, so each of you will have to tell the rest of us how you're doing.  Some of the options have more than one place to go or see and I hope you all see that when you visit New York City that will include the Statue of Liberty, Wall Street, Times Square, MMA, Broadway Plays, and on and on until you've exhausted the things to do and see that interest you in NYC.  I think there are 75 headings but there are probably twice that many important and interesting places and things to see if you visit them all.  So those of you who want to score highest and to show your worldliness, or that you just like high scores, can report way over 100.
          Finally, if you want to add places that should be included, note them somehow.  


  1.  The five places you most want to go to.
  2.  The home country(ies) of your ancestors.
  3.  Your antipode on earth (or the nearest accessible landfall.)
  4.  The setting of your favorite book, movie, play, TV show, one or all.
  5.  The hometown or museum or hangouts of your favorite author/actor/performer
  6.  A live event of your favorite performer.
  7.  Your State's capitol, your representatives' offices, the gallery for a live house or senate meeting, etc.
  8.  A meeting of your local City Council.
  9.  A local jury trial.
10.  Your favorite local TV station
11.  Your local jail (just to visit.)
12.  A local homeless shelter/soup kitchen.
13.  A term on the volunteer board of your choice
14.  The top of your local hills/mountains.
15.  The five places or events that make your town/area/region famous.
16.  The presidential library of your favorite President.
17.  The home field/court/arena/track of your favorite team or group.
18.  The national shrine of your favorite sport or thing.
19.  The national or world championship competition of your favorite event.
20.  The ultimate periodic event in your professional area.


21.  The Amazon River Basin
22.  The American cemeteries in France
23.  Cape Canaveral
24.  Cape Horn/Straight of Magellan
25.  Cape of Good Hope/ Cape Town
26.  A car factory
27.  Chesapeake Bay
28.  Crater Lake
29.  Erie Canal
30.  A commercial farm or ranch
31.  A food processing plant
32.  Gibraltar
33.  Glacier/Yellowstone
34.  Grand Canyon
35.  Great Lakes
36.  Lake Baikal
37.  Steamboat tour on the Mississippi
38.  A movie sound stage (in use)
39.  Mt. Rushmore
40.  The Nile River area
41.  Summer/Winter Olympics
42.  Ride the Orient Express
43.  Panama Canal
44.  Suez Canal


45.  Barcelona
46.  Beijing/Great Wall
47.  Berlin
48.  Boston/Concord, etc.
49.  Brasilia/Rio
50.  Chicago
51.  Dubai
52.  Detroit (plus Edison museum)
53.  Havana
54.  Honolulu/Pearl Harbor
55.  London
56.  Los Angeles
57.  Madrid
58.  Mexico City
59.  Moscow
60.  Natchez
61.  New Delhi
62.  New Orleans
63.  New York City
64.  Paris
65.  Perth
66.  Philadelphia
67.  Prague
68.  Rome/Vatican City
69.  San Francisco/Silicon Valley
70.  Savannah
71.  Seattle
72.  Seoul
73.  Sydney
74.  Tokyo
75.  Vienna
75.  Washington, D.C. 





Sunday, January 15, 2012

EVOLUTION I

          Evolution  [3.  Biol.  a. change in the gene pool of a population from generation to generation by such processes as mutation, natural selection and genetic drift.  b. the development of a species or other group of organisms; phylogeny.  c. the theory that all existing organisms developed from earlier forms by natural selection; Darwinism.
          Natural Selection  n.  the process in nature by which forms of life having traits that better enable them to adapt to specific environmental pressures, as changes in climate or competition for food or mates, will tend to survive and reproduce in greater numbers than others of their kind, thus perpetuating those traits in succeeding generations (c 1885)
          Genetic Drift.  random changes in the frequency of alleles in the genetic pool, usually of small populations. (c 1955)]


       
          Does everyone understand that the idea of evolution (without regard to your individual beliefs) doesn't have anything to do with planning on the part of the species involved?  Apparently not.  I just finished reading a book (Omnivore's Dilemma) whose author speaks of mushrooms, "learning to hide from our view."  In another book, whose authors should know better, (The Beak of the Finch) about birds on the Galapagos Islands, proof of evolution is claimed when birds hatch young with stronger beaks whenever a bumper crop of hard seeded plants is "anticipated."

          Darwin wrote nothing to support either of these anticipating results.  As far as anyone knows, plants and fungi and most animals don't plan or anticipate anything, they respond to environmental cues such as day length, temperature changes, precipitation, etc. but they certainly don't plan to learn how to hide from people or produce young with stronger beaks.

          The simple fact that Morels have a shape and color and texture that make them harder to see than if they were bright yellow and shaped like tea cups may be the result of evolution, or it might not.  Evolution is generally thought of as a positive thing.  A species evolves to better function in its environment.  In Morels, the shape/color/texture attributes (if indeed the original Morel was different) may better indicate a devolution.  Not literally, as in disappearing from our view; ie. hard to see, but, in this instance actually being detrimental to the survival of the species.  The fruiting bodies of mycelium, mushrooms, are the means of spreading the fungus beyond its present site, which may be an acre or more, almost all underground.  If no eater of Morels can see it and if the wind doesn't blow, the spores may not disburse far.  So, by "learning to hide" the Morel has done itself a disservice.

          In the case of the Galapagos finches, the variation in beak size and strength is probably always present with every nesting.  When the plants that produce harder seeds have a particularly good year, to the detriment of other, softer seeded plants, the stronger beaked birds find more nourishment and are able to breed better.  Some will breed with wimpy beaked mates and some will breed with stronger beaked mates. The result, over time, may be an evolved (fixed) trait of a stronger beaked finch.  As long as hard seeds dominate the available feed, these birds will have a competitive advantage.  But these bird's parents certainly didn't set out to produce stronger beaked young in anticipation of hard seeds.

          The traits that result in the evolution of a species are generally thought to be  genetic accidents or, possibly in the finch beak, the result of some natural variation within a species being given a competitive advantage by an environmental change.

          For over a hundred years, archaeologists thought the Woolly Mammoth disappeared from North America because it couldn't cope with climate change.  From an evolutionary perspective the Mammoth population didn't contain enough natural variation to have some individuals who could survive the changes.  That always sounded wrong to many thinkers because the Woolly Mammoth was highly mobile and could have moved.  The theory covered that problem by deciding that the Mammoth's habitat was first surrounded by this hostile environment before it closed in, leaving the Mammoth no place to go.  Recently, new thinkers think that climate change had nothing to do with the Mammoth's demise.  There was, however, apparently a surrounding hostile environment in the form of humans. The Clovis People, it is now thought, hunted the Woolly Mammoth to extinction.  Supporting evidence includes the disappearance of the Clovis People shortly after the Woolly Mammoth disappears from the record.

          What does the Woolly Mammoth have to do with evolution?  Probably nothing by itself but it may be the ultimate cause of the extinction of the Clovis People, who apparently also had insufficient natural variation to adapt to a different food source.  If that's the case, the Clovis People are an anomaly among humans.  Humans are possibly the most adaptable species on earth.  Of course, we now know how to cheat by carrying our environment along with us anywhere we decide to go.  But the Eskimo peoples thrived north of the Arctic Circle, especially before Europeans discovered that Eskimos had no whiskey.  Humans can thrive in polluted air, on polluted water, in unsanitary conditions, while eating unhealthy food.

          So does it really make sense that the Clovis People ate every last Woolly Mammoth and then just sat at the mouth of their caves and starved to death?  Well, you say, of course not.  Their wives sent them out every day to hunt.  As everyone got hungrier and hungrier the wives began to wonder if the men were just going out far enough to be out of sight and were really playing cribbage all day.

          Meanwhile, there is historical evidence of native peoples eating bugs to get through the hard times until they could hunt or the dogs got a little fatter.  So what's with these elitist Clovis People?

          I don't know.  But if the Woolly Mammoth/Clovis People link is true it is one of the earliest instances of a specialized diet, like Koala Bears and eucalyptus leaves.

          If you could take an active part in planning and executing your own species' evolution, wouldn't the Woolly Mammoth and the Clovis People still be around?  Woolly Mammoths would have developed a disgusting taste and odor so no one, not just Clovis People, would want to eat them, and the Clovis People would have banned cribbage boards.  But who was to know?

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

JON AND SAM/DOR'S 2011 CHRISTMAS MIMEO

          I have hardly been able to wait until Christmas mimeo time to tell you all about the utterly fantastic year we were having and, now, have had.  But let's just start at the beginning and see how much gloating we can actually do.

          Of course, we started the year feeding cows and breaking ice.  Who could even invent a more pleasant task than feeding a bunch of appreciative animals?  And breaking ice, what's not to like about possibly the second most enjoyable winter chore?  I invite you to think back to your New Year's Day and compare whatever it was that you did with feeding cows and breaking ice.  As my friend Grover once said, "Envy is a terrible thing," so just be glad you have your health.

          But feeding without calving and especially without calving in the mud can get tiresome.  As soon as calving begins, it seems, there's no longer any ice to break.  The ice is replaced by sticky mud.  I will say though, that our mud rivals any mud any where and we're proud of it.  Calving is about my favorite time of year, with or without sticky mud, and we have been lucky to have a bunch of cows that like to have calves.  (Once in awhile we have a heifer who doesn't enjoy calving or thinks calves are just a nuisance to be avoided.  But we just call those heifers "Beef" and move right along with the rest of the bunch.)

          About right after the end of calving I became an old person.  Sam/Dor became an old person over a year ago so I have just caught up.  Being old, of course, means you can draw your Social Security without being penalized for making money.  In fact, you can pay and get paid at the same time and all the while Uncle is keeping track and for every increment paid in he will, some day, send you a well thought out mini-increment more cash so you'll know he's appreciative.

          How could life be better?  Having cows and calves and ice and mud, and pay and get paid, and we're only to May.  Well, it can.  I was told by the one who tells around here that Lowe's gives a discount to veterans.  I got signed up right away and got the discount for awhile, but then I had to get disabled to continue to get the discount.  The story of how that came about, while fascinating if you're of the paperwork/process/bean counter type, is long and I'll spare you the narrative.  Anyway, I'm in the process of becoming disabled, for which I have Lowe's and my mate to thank.

          But life can also get not better.  Sam/Dor's dentist, Richard, was diagnosed with cancer and even though major radiation and chemo were tried, he lasted only about four months.  She was immediately made a retired person, which isn't a bad thing, but the sudden loss of her boss and friend was hardly the transition into retirement she had envisioned.

          So now, just as I've caught up on being old, she's leapt ahead to retirement.  I think I'll stick with being disabled and avoid retirement for awhile.

          In February I went to Panama for a week.  Sam/Dor wasn't interested in going, mainly because of the hassle of airplane travel.  A friend, whose wife also didn't want to go, accompanied me.  Our goal was to go through the Panama Canal.  We made what is called a "full transit" of the Canal on a tour boat.  The remainder of the time we did tourist sorts of things and had a great time.  If you aren't already reading this on my blog page, you can go to quotidian-jce.blogspot.com and read and see photos of and about Panama, probably more than you ever wanted to know.  (You'll need to scroll through the more recent posts to get to the bottom where you can access the archived posts.)

          As usual, Sam/Dor occupied her time this year by gardening and going to garage and estate sales.  She still gets more stuff than she re-sells, but as long as we have a place to store it I suppose that won't change.  Lately she has been bringing home those county history books that about every county in America has published.  If you need a Brookings County book or a Pickaway County book, let her know.  She also brought home an OSU Beaver yearbook from my graduation year.  I didn't personally know even one person shown or mentioned.

          Also as usual, a big pile of hay was reduced to a little pile and then made into a big pile again.  We shared our Eagle Point pastures with the elk again but they are considerate enough to eat only about half of what we grow so the cows get at least some of their own grass.

          Overall, 2011 was a year.  We hope 2012 will be a happy, healthy year too, both for us and for you.

                                                                                  Merry Christmas,

                                                                                          Jon and Sam/Dor   

          

Sunday, October 23, 2011

CONCRETE FENCE POST FORMS - Making Posts

THIS TWO-FORM GATE POST SET IS REALLY THE SECOND USE OF
THESE TWO FORMS.  I BUILT A SIMPLE SPREADER BAR TO USE FOR
LIFTING THE PAIR
          I selected a place with easy access for the first try at pouring fence posts in place.  We are building a fence so we can better control access to a creek bottom that runs through part of our property.  There will be several access points along the fence.  The site chosen meets the criteria of being easy to get to.  It is also in the open and immediately adjacent to a roadway, fairly flat, and has no sticky clay in case it rains while we are experimenting with the post forms.
THIS PHOTO IS OBVIOUSLY SIDEWAYS.
IT SHOWS THE BASE RING FORM AND
THE RE-BAR ASSEMBLY TO STRENGTHEN
THE TRANSITION BETWEEN THE BASE
AND THE POST.

          Long ago, when I was young and strong, I didn't think twice about digging a hole just the right size with a shovel.  Now, I am either lazier or smarter.  We use the backhoe to dig holes for anything that involves two or more posts tied together.  These post forms are designed to be poured in conjunction with a 24" x 6" base ring.  The bottom of the base ring is set at 30".  We have no deep frost line to worry about.  We do have high shrink/swell clay (obviously not at this site) but the concrete posts with bases like this haven't so far been affected by that problem.

          I set up the laser level to get the bottoms as close to even as I can.  They are dug about three inches deeper than needed and then backfilled and compacted as much as possible to form a hard footing for the base.  The re-bar is a new addition.  Previously there didn't seem to be a need for re-bar since the entire outside of the post was steel.

(NOTE: This Blogspot system has a mind of its own when it comes to photos.  I didn't intend for the photo to be sideways.)

          As the post forms are lowered, we have the re-bar set loosely inside the base ring and we simply lower the form over the re-bar.











THE FIRST USE OF THE POST FORMS.  NEARLY LEVEL
AND ALMOST PLUMB.  YOU CAN SEE THE IDENTIFYING
NUMBERS ON THESE TWO FORMS
          It takes about 6.5, 80lb. sacks of pre-mix concrete to fill each base and post assembly, or about 13 sacks for this post pair.  I calculate an 80 lb. sack of pre-mix will yield 0.6 cubic feet of concrete.  The simple calculation is, total cubic feet divided by 0.6 = the number of sacks of concrete needed.  This number will depend upon how you mix the concrete and how you get it free of voids.  I mix one sack at a time in my little mixer (you can see it behind the top rail in the photo) with as little water as it takes to make it not granular.  We don't have a vibrator so we do much taptaptapping.  For these posts the concrete needs to flow more than if you are doing flat work but only enough to get the voids filled.  We also add a half-pint of dry cement to each sack of pre-mix.  It takes about 45, 80 lb. sacks to equal one cubic yard of concrete.  A half pint of cement weighs just less than two pounds so the mix is increased by about one sack per yard.  If you mix the concrete wetter and you don't do much tapping, a sack will probably go a little farther but you will have an inferior product in the end.

FORMS FILLED AND EXPOSED CONCRETE COVERED.

          It doesn't take long to mix up and dump and tap 13 sacks of pre-mix concrete.  You might notice here that I used four sets of vice grips to set the spacing on this two post set.  The rails go completely through the post and extend about an inch on the off side.  The vice grips simply clamp the rail to the socket.  Surprisingly, setting the rails to extend to the height of the flanges at each end with clamps on the ends of the top and bottom rails made the unit almost square and plumb.

         
There are two more things to point out in this photo of the filled forms.  First, the 2x4xVicegrip system to plumb and hold the unit is no good.  It takes forever to set the unit in place on the fence line and parallel and level and plumb when you have to adjust this stuff every time you move the forms a half inch.  The blocks to support the height and level of the unit work okay because absolute height and level accuracy are not necessary and you can slide the whole thing or each end on the blocks.  The next shop project is to build some simple screw adjusters to take the place of the 2x4xVicegrip setup so the plumb can be dialed in without any effort.  Secondly, these forms are heavy enough that the bottom rail is bowed up by their weight hanging on the rail's ends.  I have some heavy 2x4" channel iron that I am going to set under the rail, with the flat side down, to support the rail better but still allowing the unit to be moved.  The other idea is to make a tripod like setup with universal adjusters to attach to the top and bottom rail of each end of the unit or three to use for a three post corner or T.  With such a setup, the chore would be to get the unit set up with the tripods.  The adjusting would be easy.

REMOVING THE SECOND FORM

I had no good idea how long to leave the forms in place.  The local concrete merchant thought two days would be sufficient.  I gave this first set four days.  A small impact wrench makes quick work of removing the bolts.  The warp in the forms also became our friend.  Even with form release of some kind (diesel in our operation) these forms are intricate enough to want to stay where they are.  The warp helped get them started away from the green concrete.



GREEN BASE AND POST BOTTOM
          The base forms are easy to remove unless you forget to clean up around them when you finish pouring.  I use a little release on the bolts and I use some on the outside of these forms also. I would use form release on the outside of the post forms too but it would end up in the mix when you scrape concrete from the ring stiffener








TWO FORMS READY TO BE CLEANED
          It takes only a few minutes to wire wheel the excess stuff from the forms.  A coat of form release applied when you clean the forms and before you bolt them back together will save the time and effort of trying to coat them when they are together or of having to take them back apart to coat them.








TRAGIC ENDING TO OUR FIRST ATTEMPT AT CONCRETE POSTS

          Sometime on the fifth day, after the forms were removed and before the concrete had a chance to cure much, this first set apparently got bumped hard enough to crack the posts right at the bottom rail.  The set was still standing when I noticed the crack line.  I pushed the set over and broke it apart before it had a chance to cure farther and make it harder to salvage the rails.

          Of course, those of you who know me will know that I am now worried that the volume of concrete between the rails and the form wall isn't enough to form a strong post at those points.  The second set is now about two weeks old and it seems to be very strong.  I haven't asked it to hold tension or hold a gate yet but that is the next test.  We'll see.


GREEN SECOND SET JUST OUT OF THE FORMS
I LEFT THE FORMS ON THIS SET FOR SIX DAYS

THERE WILL BE A 16' GATE BETWEEN THESE TWO SETS
 

THE SUPERVISOR AND HIS ASSISTANT
          These forms have been a fun project.  The posts will be fairly expensive but they should outlast me and if the cost of alternative materials continues to rise they may become very competitive.  The cost of these posts compared to other options is not exactly straight forward.  If you constructed a two post set like these and used the same materials except used concrete for the posts, the concrete costs about $18.40 per post and base.  A number 1 tie is over $25.00 in this area and a 6"x6"x8' treated post is about $16.00.  If you used wood posts you likely wouldn't use the tubing rails, or any rails.  Hem/Fir 2"x6"x8' cost about as much as I paid for the 2 1/2" tubing, but I bought a truck load and got a good price.  If the posts turn out to be strong enough, I plan to make some more traditional braces with an X or a traditional H between the posts which will save three or four rails.  I'll let you know.

JCE
         

Saturday, October 22, 2011

CONCRETE FENCE POST FORMS - Construction

Corner and Gate Post Assembly using 8" Irrigation
Mainline and 2.5" round tubing
Latch Post Assembly and single posts with flanges to
hang 2X6 panels.  All are Concrete filled.


          About six years ago we dug up about 600' of old 8" steel irrigation mainline.  Over time, it had rusted to the point of being unusable.  As really good fence posts became harder to get and the price of even lower quality posts continued to rise, I decided to use the old mainline for corners, gate posts, intermediate braces, and other places where we needed strength and permanence.  I built the assemblies at the shop and we hauled them out, dug holes, set them in, and (since the irrigation tubing is thin walled and not able to serve as a post by itself) filled the whole setup with concrete.  
          Six hundred feet of tubing doesn't go as far as you might think.  We made corners and braces and fancy setups with wood panels between and we made water gap braces.
           Finally, we ran out of the mainline.  I priced thin walled tubing and I looked at the secondary steel yard in our area.  The best price I could get on new tubing would have made a seven foot post blank cost about $45.00.  The secondary yard didn't have much quantity but the price of secondary steel has gone up so much that each post blank would have cost about $30.00.
          Concrete fence posts are not a new idea.  Many areas around the U.S. and elsewhere have used concrete posts in areas where wood is not available or where wood will rot out about as fast as you put it in the ground.  Most concrete posts, however, are manufactured in forms lying horizontally, cured, and then installed about like a really heavy wood post.  The idea I had is to take the forms to where the posts are needed and pour them in place.  I decided to build three forms.  Two identical line forms and one corner form.  The corner form later morphed into a three way form.   


Tube with cutouts for sockets
   
The Raw Materials:  8" x 82" x 1/4" steel
tubing, 3" id steel tubing, 1/4" and 3/8"
steel plate, and 5/16" x 1" flat steel 
I found enough materials at our local secondary steel yard to do the job.  They cut the 8" material to length for me so I wouldn't have to go home and get my trailer.  Everything is secondary except the 5/16 by 1" flat strip. The cost was $468.00. 

           The fabrication is straight forward.  I used 3" id  x 1/8" tubing for the sockets because I have a truck load of 21/2" tubing to use as rails.  The Stiffener Rings are 3/8" plate on the tops and bottoms, and 1/4" plate for the intermediates.  The gussets match the rings with four each on the tops and bottoms and eight each on the intermediates.  The flanges are from 5/16" x 1" flat steel.  They were simply custom cut in pairs for each location and drilled to accept a 3/8" bolt.  Each pair has at least one bolt hole to hold the pair together as it was welded in place.


Ring Stiffener Blanks



Ring Stiffener and Gussets










I













In an attempt to get the sockets more or less parallel between the line posts and the corner post, I set up the tubes with the socket holes cut out and the socket blanks roughly in place.  Two of the intermediate ring stiffeners were also put in place on each post between the appropriate sockets since they can't be easily added after the sockets are welded in place.  After worrying and fretting long enough to have done the job, I
Three Post Setup to get sockets placed correctly
Sockets
Gusset layout from drop  
Adding Ring Stiffeners and Gussets
finally decided that perfection isn't necessary here.    The results aren't elegant but there is enough room between the 3" socket and the 2 1/2" rail to compensate for some small misalignment problems.
Flanges










I also spent time making certain everything was plumb and level before tacking the sockets in place.  That was probably mostly wasted time.  Certainly, you don't want to just throw things together, but obsessing over a tube being a quarter inch out of plumb isn't necessary here.














Sockets tacked in place and Stiffeners loosely set





















                                                                                     After the sockets are tacked in place, I laid each unit on a work table and tacked on the Ring Stiffeners and the Gussets.  From the start, I knew there would be some warp in the finished form pieces but I still tried to weld everything up in stages so the warp wouldn't be excessive.  When I finished this phase, the ring stiffeners, gussets and sockets were welded solid except near where the parting cut and flanges would go.




Plasma-cut line (This process was later changed to cut
only between each set of stiffeners at one time.)

The first form cracked open.  We wanted a little warp
 On the first form, I used the plasma cutter to make the cut line through the tubing, the rings, and the sockets as I went along.  After the first half of the first form it seemed easier and more accurate to snap a line, corresponding to the line through the sockets, across the stiffeners (since they stick up higher than everything else) and then cut them down to the tubing with a zip wheel.  I used those cuts to hold the snap line while I marked the sockets and I also cut them down to the tubing with the zip wheel.  Then it was easy to plasma cut the tubing between the various places and to finish the cuts through the tubing below the rings and sockets.  (The socket blanks stick through the tubing on the inside as much as half an inch and the plasma cutter can be used inside the socket itself to cut the line.)

          I custom cut all of the flange pairs before I started each cut along the length of the tubing.  With the flange pairs cut and drilled and bolted together it was just busy work to plasma cut the cut line, clean up the little bit of slag and weld the flanges in place.  The flanges are not welded solid on the outside because I thought the possibility of too much warp wasn't worth the small benefit.





When I finally cracked open the first form and it fell apart easily, I tried to forget about those times when I have welded things together that were supposed to be apart.  It's worth mentioning though, that if you don't get a clean cut line you may have an interesting time getting the parts apart.  It's also worth noting that you need to look closely to be certain you have removed all of the bolts before you try to crack the form open.




Finished inside on left, raw inside on right
       
Once the form is open, it takes awhile to clean up and weld up the inside and then grind everything smooth.  I did weld solid the flange on the inside.  After both parts are finished, I gave the entire inside a thorough going over with a stiff wire wheel and then coated the interior with form release, diesel in our case.






                                                                                      The corner post began as simply a corner post
The Corner Post has three columns of Sockets so it
can be used as a corner, a T, or a three-in-a-line brace.
with sockets 90 degrees apart.  When I finally realized that the form would still have to be three pieces I decided to add another set of sockets and make two quarters and one half piece.  The versatility is greatly increased and the labor was minimal.









Two nearly finished forms
The Corner Post has one half-Section and two Quarter-Sections
We wanted some warp but maybe not quite this much


 The warp problem reared its head, or maybe its curve, on the quarter sections of the corner post.  It takes a 3" bolt to get the parts started together.  With the large number of bolts available, though, the whole thing goes back together easily.
Even with the excess warp, the quarter-sections are
easy to put together with all of the available bolts.  If you
expand this photo you can see the index notches
between the sockets on the right.  The not visible side
flange has a single notch index in the same location.

          These forms are heavy.  The line forms weigh about 170 lb. and the corner form weighs about 185 lb.  Also, with each of these forms being custom made, I welded a "1" on the two pieces of a line post form and a "2" on the two pieces of the second line post form.  The corner post form got a "3" on each of its pieces plus it got index marks (notches with the zip wheel) so the two quarter sections can be indexed to the proper position

                                                        


                     


JCE

Monday, June 6, 2011

Our Excellent Garden Visit

Sam, Elizabeth, Jack, and I met at Schreiner's Iris Garden on June 2nd for our second annual spring visit.  Just like last year, the rainy and overcast weather made us think we might have to view the garden in the rain. But just like last year, we got to enjoy the garden without getting wet.
                                                                                          If you like Irises, Schreiner's is the place to go in May of most years but into June this year since we haven't had anything but rain and cool weather so far.  Many of you have seen the Iris fields along I-5 just north of Salem.  Each of those fields are Schreiner's growing fields.  There are more growing fields plus the gardens which are between I-5 and old 99.  This link includes their catalog, which is worth looking at even if you don't intend to buy any.       http://www.schreinersgardens.com/ 

Every Iris, of course, has a name and many of the flowers shown here and in the catalog have been developed at Schreiner's.


The garden occupies about two acres with the rows laid out between wide grass paths.  The rows are about ten feet wide with irises featured nearest to the paths and taller background plants along the center line of each row.  if you are a good photographer, there are excellent compositions to be found.  When we were there, several people with mega-cameras were doing just that.  My little camera seems to be about able to capture what I see.  I do especially like the white iris below.



 As with previous blog entries, I'm unable to put the photographs where I would like them to be, even though I follow the directions that tell me how easy it is to move and edit everything.  Schreiner's also has a retail store and an order desk at the garden, so you can buy cut flowers and a few plants and you can order Iris plants to be shipped in July or August.  Here are a few more photographs of Schreiner's and then some from Adelman's Peony Garden in Brooks, about three miles north of Schreiner's.



 Adelman's Peony Garden        http://peonyparadise.com/       Is located just north of Brooks.  It isn't nearly as imposing as Schreiner's but if you like Peonys (or is it Peonies or peonies or maybe pretty flowers), you will like this place.  Adelman's has a small, rather formal show garden and then row after row of potted Peonys for sale.  You see the prices and think you will probably need a loan to buy one but we somehow managed to leave with one big potted plant and several cut flowers from their retail store.

 Adjacent to the retail area is a path that takes you to the growing fields.  These photographs were taken there.  I'll put the rest of the photographs from both places in a Facebook album.